Last Week (In Watches) Today

It is yet again time for our roundup of releases and news and any other bits and bobs from the watch world over the last seven days, give or take. Chosen by me, in no particular order, let’s dive in:

Ming 19.05

Ming watches are bidding farewell to their 19 series with the 19.05, a greatest hits of design cues from the very popular 19.01 and 19.02. The 19.05 features a full sapphire dial with an oily black undercoat that shares the same “inversion under certain lighting conditions” with previous 19 models. In a first for the 19 series, the ceramic Super-LumiNova X1 is now embedded directly into the sapphire dial for a lume effect that looks really unique and well-defined. The movement shares a base with the Ming 19.02 Worldtimer, the Schwarz-Etienne for MING Cal. ASE 200.1. With a 72-hour power reserve and a micro-rotor winding mechanism, the movement features skeletonized bridges, a matte-blasted 5N rose gold coating, and hand-finished and polished anglage. The 19.05’s case, which is basically just a thin band of titanium holding together a thick sapphire crystal sandwich, is made from grade 5 titanium with a mixture of mirror-polished and brushed surfaces. The package is finished off with Ming’s Universal Bracelet in matching Grade 5 titanium. This is a limited release of 15 pieces and unsurprisingly sold out very quickly, even at a fairly high price point for Ming, at CHF 9,950 MING

Tockr C-47 Skeleton Automatic 

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Tockr Watches out of Texas has released the C-47 Skeleton Automatic, a tribute to the C-47 Radial Engine Collection which the brand launched with in 2017. The Radial dial pays homage to the iconic WWII-era C-47 aircraft that Tockr Founder Austin Ivey’s grandfather flew during the war. With this new skeletonized release, we get to take a peek under the hood and see what is running the works. In this case we find the STP 6-15 H6, a 28,800vph, three-hand movement with a 44-hour power reserve. Everything sits inside a cushion-shaped 316L stainless steel case, underneath an anti-glare sapphire crystal. The exhibition caseback is also sapphire and reveals even more of the inner magic with the help of a custom skeletonized rotor. These are a limited edition of 8 pieces in each color and it appears the black is already sold out, with a few of the blue models still available. MSRP is $2300 but the remaining blue stock is on sale at publication time for $1599, so act fast! TOCKR 

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Gold Jack Heuer’s Birthday

TAG Heuer invites us to celebrate the 88th birthday of Jack Heuer, great-grandson of the brand’s founder, former TAG Heuer CEO, and current Honorary Chairman, with a release inspired by Jack’s favorite watch, the iconic vintage Heuer Carrera 1158CHN from the 1970s. Framed inside a 42mm, 18k Rose Gold case, the silver opaline dial features a pair of applied infinity loops, symbolising Jack’s birthday and recalling his infinitely important legacy to the brand. The two contrasting subdials appear in black as a nod to Heuer’s vintage racing chronographs. This limited-edition model is equipped with the Calibre Heuer 02, a column- wheel chronograph movement with an 80-hour power reserve. The caseback is exhibition style, showing off the movement and the custom rotor emblazoned with Jack Heuer’s motto, “Time never stops, why should we?” The watch comes on a black alligator strap, with Jack’s signature in gold script. Limited edition of 188, available “soon” for $18,450 USD. Tag Heuer Moser & Cie Streamliner

Moser Chronograph Funky Blue

 Moser & Cie have released a new production version of the Streamliner Chronograph in their iconic “Funky Blue” colorway. You will remember this watch as one of the most discussed and covered watches of pre-COVID 2020, and winner of the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in the Chronograph category. That initial release was limited to 100 long sold out pieces. This new blue edition represents the non-limited, production model. This is H. Moser & Cie’s entry into the crowded integrated bracelet, sport watch field, and a very strong entry it is. Especially in a freely available production model. It has a 42mm “streamliner”- shaped case, and a domed sapphire crystal covering that Funky Blue dial. The flyback chronograph movement is the Calibre HMC 902 developed with AGENHOR for H. Moser & Cie. Featuring a unique center-displayed chronograph counter and a flyback function, it is the only one of its kind currently in production. The automatic part of the movement, that of the rotor, is placed in between the movement and the dial, allowing full view of the beautifully finished movement through the display caseback. Available now for CHF 39,900 H. Moser & Cie.

Oak & Oscar Olmsted Matte

Chicago’s Oak & Oscar is back with a new version of their well-received Olmsted watch. This time in a matte black ceramic coated case, and a clean, no-date design that I, as a noted anti date window crusader, think works really well. This is a 38mm field watch with a lovely, two-layer sandwich dial. The splash of orange color on the second hand is matched on the outer minute track at the cardinal directions to liven things up, but just a little bit. Simplicity is the order of the day. The watch is powered by an ETA 2892, a well-known, tried and true automatic movement beating at 28,800 vph and featuring a 42-hour power reserve. Oak & Oscar have taken it a little bit further by modifying the movement themselves to remove the date function, a much appreciated touch that most independent brands do not bother to do with time-only watches. It is indeed the little things that count here. This watch will be “limited production”, whatever that means, and is available for preorder now for $1475 USD. Oak & Oscar

Watches & Wonders Geneva cancels live show

Let’s finish the week off with a touch of industry news. In the modern world of trade shows being cancelled and rescheduled and cancelled again and renamed ludicrous things (you know who you are) and cancelled again, it comes as no real surprise that Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly SIHH) has cancelled their live, in-person show that was scheduled for April 07, 2021. From their statement: “In the light of uncertainty amid the current health crisis, the Watches and Wonders Geneva Exhibitor Committee has taken the decision not to hold the physical Salon, scheduled April 7 to 13, 2021. An all-digital edition will be proposed on the same dates … with new services and features, where participating brands will be able to present their new watches for 2021 and interact directly with their audiences.” So it’s looking like 2021 will be a continuation of our current lives filled with Zoom presentations and YouTube videos and TV screens, just like 1970s Sci-Fi predicted. We will all be assimilated.