Watch Review : Longines HydroConquest Ceramic – Pick One Up But Don’t Drop IT

In the world of watches the quest for the “perfect” material is a voyage that’s as long as the history of watchmaking itself. The goal of this ageslong struggle is to find something that is at the same time attractive, easy to work with, robust yet light, resistant to scratches and cost effective. Leaving aside the movement, I struggle to think of a substance that has NOT been used to fabricate the case and other parts of a timepiece. Stainless steel, gold, titanium, aluminiumcarbon fiber,  platinum, tantalum, bronze, glass, plastic, rubber, granite, wood (yes wood!) and cardboard (editors note: dont forget about cheese!) are but a few examples each with its own strengths and weaknesses. Put simply, unless some breakthrough in materials is made, there are no true candidates. This doesn’t mean that there aren’t any materials that sum up some of the aforementioned desirable characteristics. Ceramic is one of them. It’s attractive, it can be both highly polished and matte and made in virtually any colour. It’s extremely hard and essentially scratch proof , yet weighs 30% less than steel per cubic centimeter. It’s relatively easy to injection mold to form (though not as easy milling steel), immune to rust and magnetic fields and much much cheaper than gold or platinum. So, where’s the catch? Ceramic in virtue of its extreme hardness iquite brittle. Drop it from a height on a hard surface and it has a snowball’s chance in hell of surviving unscathed. Best case it will get chipped, worst case you’ll be hoovering it off the floor. 

So why an earth did Longines use ceramic to make a diver watch that has to withstand the rigors of being bashed on reefs? I had the opportunity to play around with one so let’s find out.  

The Longines HydroConquest reference n. L3.784.4.56.9 was presented in late November and as far as I know, it’s currently only available in select Longines boutiques (it’s still on preorder at AD’s). At a first glance you would be fooled into thinking that this is just another PVD/DLC job applied to the popular (and fantastic value) Longines diver. But pick it up and that perception fades away immediately:  It just comes alive.  This 43mm diameter watch is made nearly entirely of black ceramic. The polished case, back, crown, matte dial, one piece bezel and even the deployant clasp are forged out of zirconium oxide ZrO2The strap is a comfortable vulcanized black rubber affair with formed ends that perfectly hug the case between the lugs. About the lugs: they are a bit on the long side so the watch does wear larger than its actual diameter suggests.  

Like I wrote earlier, from the moment you start to handle this black beauty you realize that there is no angle from which the ceramic case looks the same. The deep black sheen sends off grey reflections and at times specular highlights just like polished stainless steelSix digit Rolex Submariner owners are familiar with this look from the ceramic bezel. The surrounding environment determines its looks more than any other material I know. It’s hard to describe in words and photographhardly do it justiceThis watch has to be seen in the flesh to be fully appreciated. The finely finished dial is highly readable with big lumed arbaics at 6, 9 and 12 and round lume pips at the other 5 minute marks. Large lumed silver snowflakelike hour and minute hands and a lollipop second hand show the time. The finely finished matte ceramic dial contrasts strongly with the hands enhancing readability as does the sapphire crystal with multiple layers of AR coating on both sides. A small framed date window with a white background adorns the 3 o’clock position. There is no cyclopsgood choice Longines.  

James Porter and Son

Oddly the biggest surprise has nothing to do with itlooks but rather its temperature. It’s cold to the touch in a eerily pleasing way, like a pebble picked out of a stream. My steel Tudor Black Bay felt warm by comparison. This coldness serves no practical purpose but together with case’s slippery smoothness it adds immensely  to the “fetish factor” if such a thing even exists! Isimple terms it just feels great to hold in your hands.  

Another pleasant surprise is the price. While it’s more than twice the cost of its steel counterpart; the 2870 pound price tag is an absolute steal for a fully ceramic watch of such high quality. As far as I know the closest competitor is the Tudor Fastrider Black Shield Chrono, a completely different ceramic watch that retails for over 1000 pounds more. (If readers have any other suggestions please drop a comment below)  

It’s as clear as day from what I’ve written that I really adore this watch so much so that I’ve added it to my (very long) wish list. As a response to the question, why did Longines make it the answer is because  it looks and feels stunning and that’s a good a reason as any. If you do get round to adding it to your collection I’m sure it will bring a big smile to your face. But for goodness sake  be carefuljust don’t drop it!