SIHH 2019 : Grail List Update

Do we all have a grail list?

I certainly do. Some I know have lists of “unobtainium” watches that even if you sold body parts you will almost certainly never see let alone own.

Some have a “Barenaked Ladies” list, the “if I had a million dollars” variety.

I have two lists, one list currently has 6 watches on it, this is my “I could maybe one day actually own one of these” lists.

On my other, I just have one watch currently. I treat this as my “never going to own, but would love to list” and I like to just have one watch on it.

For me, the watch on that list normally represents what I think is the watch engineering pinnacle of the day rather than the best in bling, though I do love a bit of bling

Scottish Watches and Bark and Jack

Well the news out of SIHH 2109 has forced at least one change to the first list and the single watch on the second list is now on a “shoogly peg”

So what is on my lists.

On list one in no particular order is,

The Patek Philippe 5235G,

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 26579CE

Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 in Platinum

A. Lange and Sohne Zeitwerk in Pink Gold

Ressence Type 3

De Bethune DB28 Digitale
It may be no surprise especially if you have already tuned into Episode 3 of the podcast that the ALS Zeitwerk has now been gazumped, but only with the new ALS Zeitwerk which now has a radial date complication.
ZEITWERK DATE in white gold with a grey dial.
It seemed inevitable that ALS would add a date complication to a mechanical digital display watch, but they have knocked it out the park with how they have executed the complication, putting it radially rather than clogging up the dial with another digital display.
Good work ALS.
Now my ultimate unobtanium watch.
This is currently the Krayon Everywhere Horizon watch.
It would take far too long to explain here, in what is supposed to be a short note as to why the Krayon is such a phenomenon, but just believe me when I say that a watch that can be programmed to display the sunrise and sunset times anywhere in the world by its wearer and not a watchmaker is a first and a remarkable first at that.
If you want more engineering info just use google, info is also “everywhere”  sorry.
But the placeholder the Krayon hangs on is now working its way slowly loose.
Vacheron Constantin has made a bid for my grail heart with the release of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar.
Here is their press video for an overview

 

So hopefully you have gathered from the video that this is a perpetual calendar.

As anyone who owns one will know the main issue with these is that they are a pain in the neck to keeping setting after they have run out of power and stopped*

Most often the solution to this is to keep the watch in a watch winder thus ensuring it is always bang on when you come to wear it

The VC solution is instead to create a watch with two power modes, one you select while wearing and the other you select while the watch is being stored.

When on the low power setting you can get 65 days of low power, just enough to keep everything going and in sync for when you next decide to give the watch and airing.

It may sound like an easy engineering challenge but it is complicated enough that it is giving the hypercomplex Krayon a run for its money.

When we did our first preview of SIHH on the podcast I considered that the star of the show could well be the ALS Lange 1 25th Anniversary. I think it is fair to say that this VC has now knocked it off its perch in my reckoning and that it is giving the Krayon a serious peck.

So there is it I will wait to hear back from @rikkiwatches as to what he thinks when he sees it in the flesh to decide if the Krayon is still my number 1.

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Sorry @Rikkiwatches what was that you said?

Krayon now has an Everywhere Horizon watch with 94 baguette diamonds and a 2-karat micro-rotor….Sorry VC it is the brilliance bucket for you after all.

Krayon you still have my engineering heart and now my blingy one

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*unless of course you took the sensible route to Perpetual Calander ownership and bought an IWC where thanks to the genius that is Kurt Klaus everything is linked together and controlled by the crown and takes no longer than setting the date on any watch to set the entire Calendar

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@rickticktalk misses the Barenaked Ladies in his life…the band that it

@Rikkiwatches has no such issue with missing the Band or the ladies….