This Week (in Watches) Today, 3 May 2022: 7 Things You Should Know

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It has been a busy week in the world of watches, with Tudor taking on Tour de France, supply chain predictions, Watchbox’s NFTs, Wei Koh’s Grail Watch initiative and cool releases from Fears, Garrick and Timex. These are the top 7 things in the world of watches; let’s get into it.

Tudor Tour de France

Tudor has a reputation for partnering with real life sporting events but this week, it announced that it would be forming its own cycling team with the aim of competing at Tour de France by 2024. The Tudor Pro Cycling Team (as the name stands) would be led by  Swiss cycling legend Fabian Cancellara. Since it is a brand new team, they will have to first qualify for this most prestigious cycling event, and that starts on 15 May in the Paris-Roubaix U23 race. For the rest of the 2022 season, the team will compete in the UCI Continental Class. It will then apply for the UCI ProTeam season in 2023 and target qualification for Tour de France by 2024. Personally, it is nice to see Tudor heading such initiatives, it is after all primarily a tool watch brand. It is therefore fitting to see a new watch launched as well, which is essentially the Black Bay Chrono Dark, but with red outlines on the sub-registers and comes on a FXD style Velcro strap with red accents. The watch is not available for sale, since it is only issued to members of the Tudor Pro Cycling Team which is a nice touch if you ask me.

Supply chain issues to resolve in six months?

Martins of Glasgow Watch Servicing and Repair

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Photo Credit: WatchPro

Given the global impact of the pandemic over the past two years, disruptions to the supply chain were always inevitable and the luxury watch industry did not escape unscath. Given the time required for watch development and production, retailers and consumers are really only feeling the effect now. The good news is that that should elevate in the next six months or so says Panerai CEO, Jean-Marc Pontroue. While this may only be one brand’s opinion, it is encouraging to hear, given that the limelight on production shortages have been exacerbated by the ever increasing demand for luxury watches. For those hoping that this helps you get that hotly sought after Rolex sports model though, you will be disappointed to know that Rolex actually produced more watches in 2021 as compared to 2019 (1.05 million vs 1 million).

WatchBox launches NFTs of watches

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Photo Credit: WatchPro

NFTs are all the rage these days and to capitalise on that, WatchBox has partnered with Origyn to create tradable NFTs for the watches that it sells. According to the company, each watch that comes through WatchBox is scanned digitally to pick up the most minute details on the watch that is then compiled to create the NFT certificate which is irreplicable. According to Origyn CEO, Daniel Haudenschild, such NFTs that guarantee an object’s authenticity are highly tradable. Watchbox CEO, Justin Reis believes that such an initiative will further strengthen consumers’ trust in the company. Theoretically though, this initiative also allows for ownership of watches to be traded, without the physical watch ever leaving WatchBox’s safes, which would make these luxury watches akin to ownership of fine wine. While I am all for improving the way luxury watches can be authenticated, it is the tradable part of the NFTs that in my opinion is a shame, since they move watches further into the alternative investment asset class and away from being actual items to be handled, experienced and enjoyed. I guess with the way the market has moved in the past couple of years, that is inevitable but it is still a shame nonetheless.                 

Grail Watch Launch

In the past couple of years, independent watchmaking has really taken off with ever increasing demand. Wei Koh however, believes that greater attention and focus can be given to this area of the industry and thus launched Grail Watch. The aim, is to bring the brilliance that can be found in independent watchmaking (this includes microbrands and designers) to the public via limited editions from these watchmakers. Before you roll your eyes and brush aside this as another gimmick to release unattainable limited edition watches, this company has plans to ensure that the limited editions will be made available in as equitable a manner as possible. This means alternating the launch dates and times around the world such that those looking to pick something up will get their chance with some of the releases. For example, the first release, the Ressence x Alain Silberstein “Carpe Diem” was released on 1 May 2022, 10 am, in Singapore, and at its release time, I could have potentially bought it, if not for the fact that I do not have CHF 22,500 to spare. Details regarding the watch, and the launch date and time will also be announced before hand, so that interested buyers have the opportunity to plan for it. Overall, this sounds like an admirable project to launch, especially if it increases the reach that independent watchmakers get. Time will tell if it manages to live up to its claims and goals.

Grail Watch – Ressence x Alain Silberstein “Carpe Diem”

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Since we have touched on Grail Watch, let’s take a look at this first release, the Ressence x Alain Silberstein “Carpe Diem”. What we have is a whimsical, sort of animated dial, that only Alain Silberstein can dream up, comprising of a skull, a tulip, two triangles and two rings. That sounds simplistic, but the execution is phenomenal. The tulip’s stalk is the hour indicator in a coral red ring divided by white hour markers. From this ring extends a sky blue triangle to tell the minutes together with the white minute track at the edge of the dial. To its left, we have the skull as the running seconds and to its left, a smaller yellow triangle encompassed by a white ring divided by 7-day markers. Each of these features are not static however, as they are actually independently rotating satellites set on a larger satellite i.e. the navy blue dial, that is the canvas for this extremely fun design. These features come together in Ressence’s Type 1 41.5mm x 11mm case, which has virtually no lugs to speak of since they extend out in a curved loop with just enough gap for the leather of the blue calf skin strap to pass through. There is also no crown on the case, as the watch is set via a lever on the case back. Cool isn’t it? The watch is powered by an ETA 2892/A with Ressence’s patented ROCS module, though the former only runs the minute hand. Together, they give the watch 36 hours of power reserve. As mentioned earlier, this is the first release under the Grail Watch initiative, and hence, the watch is limited to only 36 pieces, all of which as at the time of writing has been sold. Still, conceptually, this was a cool first watch to release and hopefully sets the tone for the rest to come from Grail Watch.

 Fears Garrick

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Speaking of independent watchmaking, this week we have the latest and greatest from British watchmakers, a collaboration piece between Fears and Garrick hence the name Fears Garrick. This watch aptly combines some of the best from both watches. Most of the matte paper white dial is classic Fears, especially when viewed together with the applied black polished black gold Arabic numerals that give way to classy small seconds, and power reserve sub-registers at 10 and 2 o’clock respectively. On the other hand, while the movement and exposed (from the front) balance wheel is a Garrick special. The latter might at first glance be mistaken for a tourbillon, but is actually the balance wheel held by a hand finished bridge that features remarkable bevelling and polishing on the edges. The high quality hand finishing continues on to the movement, which has a three-quarter plate but still keeps the winding system visible, and includes frosting, polishing and anglage that can be enjoyed through the sapphire display case back. Collectively, this makes for a very elegant watch, even though it is housed in a 42mm x 10mm 904L steel case that feature thin sharp lugs. The watch costs £19,500 (£16,250 without taxes) and is not limited, but will be numbered and have a small yearly production batch of 10-15 pieces. They can be bought through both Fears and Garrick’s websites.

Timex Q Timex GMT

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Finally, we have something that is far more affordable and far more accessible to close off the week. Timex has updated its Q Timex line with very welcome improvements. When the Q Timex first launched, it came with a lot of hype and waitlists but at its core, it was always meant to be a fun affordable watch with vintage aesthetics. These new watches certainly carry on that trend but small upgrades that make the watch a better watch in my opinion. The upgrades include a GMT hand which necessitates a corresponding 24-hour bi-directional  aluminium bezel (the original had a 12-hour bezel), a new movement, the removal of the day complication and a new (hopefully improved) bracelet. The biggest change i.e. the addition of the GMT functionality, is apt, given the mass opening of travel routes these days. Currently, I cannot find any information on whether it is the 24-hour hand that is independent or the hour hand. The addition of this 24-hour hand and bezel, somehow makes the dial look more complete, and coupled with the removal of the day window elevates the class of the overall aesthetic. So too, does the new bracelet which looks like a cross between an integrated sports bracelet and a flattened jubilee bracelet. Hopefully, the new bracelet does not pull the hair as much. Timex was able to get a Swiss quartz movement (as compared to the Seiko based original) to power the new releases though the exact caliber is still unknown. This new movement causes a 1mm bump in case thickness to a 38mm x 12.5mm which is still extremely wearable. Besides these changes, the watches still pretty much looks the same as the original Q Timex, and you have your choice of a Pepsi or Batman bezel on a steel case and bracelet or a black bezel on a gunmetal finished case with a synthetic rubber strap. The price for the former two is US$219, while the gunmetal version costs US$199. At just a US$40 premium over the original, these are no-brainer options especially once the initial inevitable hype and shortage dies down. 

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So that is it for this week. As always, get in on all the action on the Scottish Watches website, and of course, the podcast on your podcaster of choice. Till next time, take care everyone.

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