Last Week (In Watches) Today

 As the world continues to rumble on in its semi lock down state, things over in the world of watches frenetic in pace, with a flood of watch releases over the past couple of weeks. This week however, has been relatively slow (by slow I mean more than 10 releases still) which gives us a chance to also dig into some of the other remarkable news along with aforementioned releases that has been going on in the watch world.  

 Rolex 2019 UK operating profit jumped 27%  

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Rolex Watch Company Ltd in UK reported that its sales jumped from £367 million to £415 million, an increase of 13%. Its operating profit also jumped 27% to £70.2 million. Rolex holds a very envied position. Given the strength of its brand and the ever-increasing prices on the grey market, Rolex is likely to be the last watch brands to be affected by the current Covid-19 pandemic.  In fact, some of its watches might very well be considered investment grade, something that is hard to come by in the current climate. Still, it would be interesting to see what the figures for 2020 are when they do come out a year from now, given that the many different moving factors at play.  

 Rolex Submariner 5512 sells for £217,000 

 

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It is stories like these that help boost the Rolex investment grade perception. A watch that was bought by a coal mine’s medical attendant 56 years ago in 1964 for just £70, sold at Gardiner’s Houlgate for £217,000, more than 3,000 times its original value. This Rolex Submariner is no ordinary Submariner though, it was a reference 5512 that featured an Explorer dial, so named for its 3,6,9 numeral layout, which is a combination that is extremely rare. It also is a feel good story given that the benefit of the sale went to the original owner’s daughter and her husband, some 25 years after his passing.  

 Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty 

 

For a while now, Zenith has been balancing its amazing innovations that are typically found in its Defy series, against the more traditional El Primero pieces that keeps it true to its roots. This latest release falls firmly in the latter category. Housed in the lovely A384 case, a watch that I am particularly fond of, the Revival Liberty sports a blue dial with white sub-dials and red accents in the chronograph hand and date window. If that colour combination rings a bell, it is because this watch is a limited edition piece that is only available in the USA market. It also comes on a blue Cordura style strap with red side stitches to match the dial. As with the other two A384 variants, this watch overall perfectly fits the vintage aesthetic that the brand seems to have aimed for. If you can ignore the 4.30 date window which I detest, this watch certainly looks fun and somehow seamlessly incorporates a vintage aesthetic that is youthful at the same time.  

 Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph 

 

 Doxa is continuing the expansion of the range of divers that it offers with this latest Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph. This collection includes the signature orange that the brand has come to be known for along with a similar range of other colour options that all its collections seem to have. Design wise, it looks basically like a Sub 200, but with three sub-dials. I personally find it a little odd that though the case has been upsized to 45mm over the 42mm on the Sub 200, the dials still appear a little more crowded that it should. Still, Doxa has never been known as a mainstream brand and I am sure this collection would find its place with a niche group of collections. 

 Seiko Prospex SNR049J  

Seiko has continued to adopt its throw everything at the wall and see what sticks policy. This latest offering is a 44.8mm GMT that is powered by the 5R66 Spring Drive movement. What is particularly remarkable about this watch is the fact that its bezel is not the only dual colour feature on the watch. The dial, is also divided into blue and black and from its press images looks remarkably like how day fades into night over the sea and vice versa. While this watch may be too big for some, Seiko, like its more luxurious premium sibling, Grand Seiko, are well-known for being experts and case execution such that even larger cases wear well on the wrist. For all the goodness that this watch brings, which includes a titanium case and a traveller’s GMT movement, the price of around US$ 6,000 would be difficult for most to stomach especially given that this is still a Seiko watch. The price fully encroaches into Grand Seiko territory, something that we previously discussed here and here, and leaves you wondering what market Seiko is aiming releases for. Perhaps the fact that it is limited to only 1,000 pieces might help its cause a little though I am personally doubtful of that.  

 

So that is all for the week. Do check out Panerai’s latest release and Nodus’ new Sector Field watches that have a couple of new cool colourways. Also do remember to check out all things Scottish Watches for your regular sources of entertainment. Stay safe and take care.  

 

 

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