Last Week (In Watches) Today

When I signed up to do Last Week (in Watches) today I assumed it was going to be a quiet week in advance of the Rolex releases. I was wrong. So here, in no particular order, are the highlights of the last week.

1 – Swatch – Bunny X Bunny

Swatch’s take on the classic erotic watch has been released just in time for Chinese Valentine’s Day. This 34mm Swiss Quartz watch features bunnies innocently playing during the day on the front of the strap. Flip the watch over and on the back of the strap the bunnies are, well, at it like rabbits at night! It’s another fun offering from Swatch that doesn’t break the bank at £58.

https://shop.swatch.com/en_gb/watches/originals/gent/bunny-x-bunny-ge714c.html

2 – G-SHOCK RUI HACHIMURA SIGNATURE MODEL GST-B100RH-1AER

James Porter and Son

For those that find a standard G-Shock far too understated here we have the Rui Hachimura signature model. Featuring a gold ion plated bezel and a red hour marker at 8, which is NBA star Rui Hachimura’s jersey number. It is certainly a striking look. It features Bluetooth and can be synced with the G-Shock Connected phone app, but not the sport focused G-Shock Move app. Okay, it isn’t the most sports focused of G-Shocks, nevertheless it is still a tough, eye-catching watch that can take care of all of your timing and alarm needs for £399.

https://g-shock.co.uk/gst-b100rh-1aer

3 – Breitling Endurance Pro

In what is becoming the new normal for Breitling the Endurance Pro was launched via a summit webcast last week. With the help of three world champion triathletes Georges Kern introduced Breitling’s latest casual sports chronograph. The 44mm watch case is crafted from Breitlight, a black substance 3.3 times lighter than titanium and 5.8 times lighter than steel. The athletes commented that it was so light on the wrist they almost forgot they were wearing it. The watch is powered by Breitling’s Calibre 82, a COSC certified Thermocompensated SuperQuartz movement. It features a 1/10sec, 30min chronograph, a pulsations scale and a compass bezel. The watch is available in five colours with the crown and start pusher matching the pulsation scale. It also comes on a colour matched rubber strap with a Breitlight double tang buckle and can be paired with a ECONYL NATO strap (which is a regenerated nylon made from ocean and landfill waste). This sporty watch can be yours for £2450.

They have also launched a 500min STRAVA challenge, where anyone completing 500mins of activity within two weeks can enter a random draw to win some Breitling kit. At the time of writing there are over 55k participants!

https://www.strava.com/challenges/breitling-endurance-pro

4 – H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds


If you have read some of my articles before you will already know that I am a fan of green watches and fumé dials. The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds is a watch that does not disappoint. A 40mm steel, time only watch with integrated bracelet, 120m water resistance and an exhibition caseback. This is prime Patek Philippe Aquanaut territory. It’s 1.8mm thicker than the Aquanaut at 9.9mm but the minimum 3 day power reserve of the exquisitely finished automatic movement is a full day more than the competition. It is a stunningly beautiful watch for CHF19,990 (~£16,500) that combines a rugged stylish case with a beautiful fumé dial and well finished movement.

https://www.h-moser.com/en/streamliner

5 – Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale


Longines have once again looked to the past for inspiration and have created a 38.5mm steel, time only watch with a healthy dose of faux patina. I know faux patina is the subject of much debate, but when it is applied sensitively it can look great, in my opinion. This is a prime example of drawing inspiration and creating a considered aesthetic which looks intentional and not like a cheap pastiche. The watch features a “lightly grained golden opaline dial” (also described as beige on the website) and blued hands with brown Super-LumiNova. The watch is inspired by a timepiece created for the French Navy in the 1940s and in many ways it looks like a watch that has gently aged since the 1940s. The watch is water resistant to 30m and features an automatic movement with 64 hours of reserve. It comes on a brown calf leather strap, but it is one of those watches that I suspect could be a real strap monster. A nice, vintage inspired watch for £1480.

https://www.longines.com/watches/heritage-collection/l2-833-4-93-2

6 – Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Nekton Edition


It seems like the watch industry is single-handedly trying to save the oceans and waterways of our great planet. Every month there is a new special edition or limited edition that’s supporting research or cleaning up the oceans. This is no bad thing, we have done a lot of damage to our planet. There are clear synergies with dive watches and protecting the oceans. It would be interesting to know how much impact these initiatives actually make in the grand scheme of things. Anyway, the Seamaster Diver 300m Nekton Edition is a 42mm Co-Axial Master Chronometer. It is available on a rubber strap for £4700 or a bracelet for £4960. The Calibre 8806 is a METAS certified movement that can withstand 15,000 gauss magnetic fields. It is described as having a special luxury finish with “arabesque and rhodium-plated rotor and bridges”, which you won’t be able to appreciate because the watch has a solid caseback with a submarine on it. The submarine is a homage to the research institute. To be fair it is reassuring that watch companies lavish care and attention on parts of the watch that you can’t see. In terms of the parts you can see, the watch features a black ceramic dial and unidirectional titanium bezel that are finished with laser ablated waves and a diving scale respectively. All things considered as a handsome time only dive watch that’s supporting a good cause it’s hard to fault.

https://www.omegawatches.com/en-gb/watches/seamaster/diver-300-m/nekton-edition/product

7 – Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Traveltec Colour Editions

There seems to be a trend with watch brands at the moment where they release bright, colourful versions of their watches. They are seen as more playful, sporty, casual, youthful incarnations. I would love to know how the sales compare to more subdued models and who the target market is. I think they can look great but I can’t imagine wearing them day to day. The latest brand to throw their hat in the ring is Carl F. Bucherer with the Patravi Traveltec Colour Editions. The watches are available in blue, green, yellow and orange, and they all have colour matched rubber straps. The COSC certified automatic chronometer, housed in the 46.6mm case, features a chronograph, GMT function, date, hour, minutes and small seconds. All the functions you could possibly need in a sporty watch that’s water resistant to 50m. The four colours of this £8000 watch represent the four seasons. Seasonal watches being an emerging trend at the moment.

https://www.carl-f-bucherer.com/en/patravi-traveltec-color-edition

8 – Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Tourbillon Double Peripheral


An £84,888, 42.5mm, 18k white gold watch with an automatic manufacture caliber tourbillon. The “Double Peripheral” refers to the fact that the tourbillon can be seen through both the front and back of the watch. The sapphire crystal caseback reveals a vast white gold  movement bridge that covers everything except the tourbillon. It is engraved with a city view of Lucerne, Carl F. Bucherer’s home. I’m sure this is a magnificent watch in the metal but the renderings of the dial on the website remind me of a Maurice Lacroix that’s a fraction of the price.

https://www.carl-f-bucherer.com/en/watches/heritage-tourbillon-double-peripheral-00-10802-02-13-01

9 – Maurice Lacroix Pontos 20th Anniversary

Speaking of Maurice Lacroix, they celebrated the 20th anniversary of the Pontos by releasing five new pieces. There’s a vintage looking monopusher chronograph, two automatic chronographs and two day-date models. The 41mm monopusher chronograph is limited to 500 pieces. It has a black PVD coating and grey to black gradient dial. The dial also features a red and blue telemeter and tachymeter. The movement has a number of Côtes de Genève finishes including a sunray brushed oscillator (I could not see the price on the website). The two automatic chronographs are 43mm. There is a white dialled version with blue hands (2690€ – 2850€), Arabic numerals and sub dial rings. The other version has a grey dial with gold details (2690€ – 2850€). The day-dates are 41mm. There is one version in bronze with a green dial (2850€), a good looking, on trend combination, and a more refined steel version with a silver sunray-brushed dial (1490€ – 1590€). The sunray version is available on a three link stainless steel bracelet or a black leather strap. They are nice additions to the Pontos range and combine the Pontos look with some popular features.

https://www.mauricelacroix.com/eu_en/news/pontos-20-th-anniversary

10 – Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback

Okay, back to Carl F. Bucherer. They also released the Manero Flyback chronograph in steel with a blue dial, because let’s face it every watch looks better in steel with a blue dial! It’s available on a textile strap or multi link stainless steel bracelet for £4700 and £4950 respectively. The 43mm case is water resistant to 30m, and the automatic movement has a 42 hour reserve. The specs aren’t anything to write home about, but it is still a nice blue dialled chronograph.

https://www.carl-f-bucherer.com/en/watches/manero-flyback-00-10919-08-53-21

11 – Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Scubatech Black


Where some of the the other Carl F. Bucherer watches have arguably been a little light on this specs this watch more than makes up with a specification on paper that suggests it could be a tough practical tool watch. The 44.6mm case is DLC coated and the bezel comprises of titanium and ceramic. Featuring a screw down crown, helium escape valve and 500m water resistance, this is certainly a robust dive watch for £5500. The rubber strap includes a recycled PET textile layer, another dive watch with a nod to sustainability. I would like to see a lume shot of the watch. On paper it has a lot going for it.

https://www.carl-f-bucherer.com/en/watches/patravi-scubatec-black-00-10632-28-33-01

12 – Carl F. Bucherer Manero Autodate Love

Carl F. Bucherer also released a couple of new versions of the Manero Autodate Love. The first is a 35.5mm red dialled, 18k rose gold number with a 62 diamond bezel. The red dial includes gold dust for a little extra sparkle and the watch is supplied on a red alligator leather strap. It’s not something I would wear personally, but it is a pretty little piece and I can see the appeal, assuming you have a spare £11,800. The second piece is two tone rose gold and stainless steel on a bracelet. It has a petrol blue dial, also with gold dust, and is available for £4700. Proceeds from both pieces support Li Bingbing’s L.O.V.E. foundation, which promotes an environmentally friendly, low carbon lifestyle.

https://www.carl-f-bucherer.com/en/watches/manero-autodate-love-00-10922-03-93-11

https://www.carl-f-bucherer.com/en/watches/manero-autodate-love-00-10922-07-53-21

https://www.carl-f-bucherer.com/en/novelties-2020

13 – Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skelton Automation


Well they’ve only gone and done it again. For the sixth year in a row Bvlgari have released another world record breaking watch in the form of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skelton Automation. At a thickness of only 7.4mm it is the thinnest skeletonised automatic tourbillon chronograph ever made. And you know what, it’s a handsome bit of kit. The angular Octo Finissimo case adds interest and depth to a watch that could look quite fragile in a regular watch case. Clearly the design also allows them the flexibility to create these beautiful thin movements. It would be easy to under appreciated just how impressive these watches are given the regularity with which they are breaking records. At $142,000, I’ll never be able to afford one, but that doesn’t matter, it is a piece of horological mastery to be admired.

https://www.bulgari.com/en-gb/geneva-watch-days.html

14 – Bvlgari Aluminium

Bvlgari have updated their Aluminium range with three new models. The Aluminium line was first released in the late 1990s and it’s unique selling point was the use of rubber and aluminium in a luxury watch. In the intervening years the use of new and novel materials in watches across the industry has increased. The three new Aluminium models have automatic ETA movements and 100m water resistance. The 40mm Aluminium cases have a rubber bezel that’s double inscribed with Bvlgari and matching rubber straps. The time and date models are available with either a black or “warm grey” dial for 2,950€ and the chronograph is available for 4,250€. The watches are intended to be Bvlgari‘s entry level sports models and I think they fulfil the brief. They have the hallmarks of Bvlgari in a sporty package that meets the requirements of a modern practical watch for day to day use without being a generic diver.

https://www.bulgari.com/en-gb/geneva-watch-days.html

15 – Bvlgari Gérald Genta Arena Bi-retro


Following hot on the heels of the 2019 Arena Bi-retro 50th anniversary watch Bvlgari have released a reimagined model with a grey dial and yellow details. The watch has jumping hours, retrograde minutes and a retrograde date complication. The automatic movement is housed in a 43mm brushed aluminium case and is available for $14,800.  There is a lot of speculation that this line of watches will continue to expand in the future if sales are successful, and given the popularity of Gérald Genta designs at the moment I suspect that this watch will appeal to collectors.

https://www.bulgari.com/en-gb/geneva-watch-days.html

16 – Ulysse Nardin Blast


Described as “technological prowess made with rock-star and edgy lines” the four Blast models house a UN-172 movement in white, blue, black and gold cases made from titanium, ceramic and gold. The movement is technologically impressive, it is an automatic tourbillon with a platinum micro-rotor. The skeletonised watch features a bold X design and “aerodynamic horns” where a normal watch would have lugs. The three blade self deploying buckle is described as having a mechanism that “snaps open like a couple sharing a dynamic and erotic tango dance”. The 45mm watches range in price from $44,000 – $54,000, which considering the prices of some of the other tourbillon watches released this week seems like relatively good value. Despite the marketing team having an absolute field day I think this is a very impressive and bold watch.

https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/row_en/blast

17 – Louis Moinet Space Revolution


The phrase avant-garde gets bandied about a lot nowadays. When I look at the Louis Moinet Space Revolution it seems like the only appropriate way to describe it. It has two spaceships below the domed crystal. One completes a clockwise rotation every five minutes and the other a counter-clockwise rotation every ten minutes. This means that the two meet in battle 18 times an hour. This is obviously what every 18k rose gold flying satellite double tourbillon has been missing. A limited edition of eight watches and price on application this truly is a piece of horological art.

https://www.louismoinet.com/product/space-revolution-lm-104-50-50/

https://www.louismoinet.com/presskit/space-revolution/

18 – De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon


At the time of writing the video of this watch on De Bethune’s website didn’t appear to be working. Also I could only access their press release in French. It is somewhat beyond the GCSE French I studied over 20 years ago but from what I can gather they are celebrating the tenth anniversary of the DB28 with the release of this watch which will be a limited edition of ten pieces. It is an elegant watch with a blue “sky bridge” that at first glance looks a bit like a Star Trek badge. The hand wound mechanical movement has a five day reserve and the watch has a power reserve indicator situated on the back in rose gold. The tourbillon is situated at six o’clock. All of this is housed in a 43mm titanium case that’s water resistant to 30m. This is another price on application situation.

https://www.debethune.ch/en/collections/db28-collection/db28-steel-wheels-1pn

https://www.debethune.ch/fr/medias/presse

19 – ArtyA Son of a Gun


I’m not actually sure where to begin with these watches. It’s another example of art and Horology colliding. Each watch is constructed using real bullets or expended shells which means that each watch will be unique. Prices start at 9,900chf. The designs are really striking, I don’t know how easy they would be to get through customs though…

https://www.artya.com/son-of-a-gun-1

https://www.artyapresscorner.com

20 – Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge and Free Bridge Infinity Editions


These are new additions to Girard-Perregaux’s Bridges collection. The Free Bridge has a 44mm steel case and is water resistant to 30m. The self winding Mechanical movement has a 54 hour reserve. The key features of the watch are the arrow shaped bridge at six o’clock, the variable inertia balance and the escapement which are constructed of silicon. The design of the watch allows the owner to enjoy these features and the movement finishing through the exhibition case back. The recommended retail price is 17,500chf. The Free Bridge Infinity has a black DLC coating and is limited to 88 pieces, it costs 20,800chf.

https://www.girard-perregaux.com/en/2020

https://www.girard-perregaux.com/en/bridges/free-bridge-82000-11-631-fa6a

21 – Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series


Seiko released the Presage Sharp Edged Series. The watches and cases feature a lot of flat surfaces and have a super hard coating to protect them from scratches. The blue, white, green and red (“Aitetsu, or indigo iron, Shironeri, an unbleached silky white, Tokiwa, the color of evergreen trees and Susutake, a brown-toned smoked bamboo”) dials have a Japanese Asanoha or hemp leaf pattern. The 39.3mm steel cases are water resistant to 100m and contain 6R35 Automatic movements. The watches also have sapphire crystal and lumibrite. A decent spec and a good looking watch for £860.

https://www.seikowatches.com/global-en/products/presage/special/sharp_edged_series/

22 – G-SHOCK GA-900

G-Shock also released some heavy duty GA-900 models. The watches have a ten sided bezel and come on a mixture of resin and cloth straps that are colour matched to details on the watch. The watches have an estimated 7 year battery life, which is impressive for a non-solar G-Shock. They are tough looking ana-digi watches.

https://g-shock.co.uk/ga-900a-1a9er

23 – Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor


I’ll be honest, I had heard the term Super Compressor but I didn’t actually know what it was referring to. Helpfully Christopher Ward has produced a brief history of the Super Compressor. Essentially the design of the case means that the strength and integrity increase with depth and it becomes more water resistant.

https://www.christopherward.com/loupe-magazine/article?cid=history-of-super-compressor

Christopher Ward has taken inspiration from the two crown Super Compressor case design to create their C65. With its internal rotating dive bezel and 150m water resistance it is certainly a decent spec for a dive watch, especially one with an exhibition case back that shows off the Sellita SW200-1 movement. The 41mm slimmed down case is made of stainless steel. There is a version of the watch on a stainless steel bracelet for £1000 and it is also available on a leather or rubber strap for £895. The watch comes with either a black sand or ocean blue dial, both nice vintage inspired colours. All in all a decent offering if you’re looking for a watch that combines vintage looks with modern practicality at an affordable price.

https://www.christopherward.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-cwgross-Site/en_GB/Search-Show?q=supercompressor

24 – Dufrane Waterloo

American microbrand Dufrane announced the upcoming Waterloo. A 39mm stainless steel watch with either a brushed and polished silver or rose gold PVD coating. It will be available with a Swiss Automatic or Swiss Quartz movement. It will be the first time that Dufrane have used a Swiss Quartz movement, they have used Swiss Automatic movements in the past. The images released so far show that this will be a slightly more dressy watch compared to their previous offerings. The price is not yet available but I suspect it will represent good value for an American assembled watch with a Swiss movement.

https://www.dufranewatches.com/pages/waterloo-sign-up

https://www.instagram.com/p/CEW4I_lHd-R/?igshid=uowi0r6ytlsg

25 – Spinnaker Hydrofoil

The Dartmouth Brands group seem determined to release a new watch or new version of a watch every couple of weeks. The company doesn’t have a long history but what they do well is draw inspiration from lifestyles or historical events. They also strike a balance between following trends and creating their own style. The Hydrofoil is the latest offering from Spinnaker. It’s a 43mm, Meca Quartz powered, diver chronograph with 200m water resistance. It has an aluminium bezel and comes on a stainless steel bracelet, for £250. You can choose from black, blue, silver or grey dials. If you’re in the market for a funky Seiko alternative they are worth checking out.

https://spinnaker-watches.co.uk/collections/hydrofoil

So, there you have it, a brief summary of one of the least quiet weeks in watches so far this year! I would say next week is bound to be quieter but the Rolex releases will probably overshadow everything that has come out this week and take up a lot more watch journalism column inches.

https://www.gva-watch-days.com

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