The Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers has come a long way since its founding in 2020. It now has 77 trade members and is open to public membership for £55 per annum. One of the aims of the “Alliance” is to find each other and work together to further watch and clock-making in the United Kingdom.
Given that one of the aims of the “Alliance” is to promote cooperation within the watch industry in the UK it is no surprise that we should see a collaboration between watch brands released under the “alliance” umbrella. In fact, why did it take so long?
The Fears Christopher Ward: Alliance 01 is a collaboration between the eponymous watch brands. Fears is run by its fourth managing director, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill who is in the process of moving to new premises in their historic home city of Bristol. Christopher Ward is a far more recent brand but they have had a recent smash hit with the C1 Bel Canto. Both brands are well-known in the watch community and are great ambassadors for the Alliance.
Christopher Ward has experience with collaborations (Worn and Wound, Scottish Watches, etc) but this is a new avenue for Fears. What have these two watchmakers come up with?
Photo: Watchpro USA
Design
Stylish, jumping hour, retro, very, very Fears.
The Alliance 01 is definitely a Fears watch. It is based upon the cushion case design of the Brunswick, a staple of the Fears line-up. The Brunswick is a versatile design and is available in some interesting colorways and with a central three-hand or small seconds configuration. The Alliance 01 is a jumping hour with slightly more modern theme than might be considered normal for Fears.
The case is 40.5mm in diameter with a depth of 12.8mm and a closed case back. The underside of the lugs is engraved with discrete Alliance motifs.
The dial is described as burgundy but can appear to have a brownish tint in some lights. The hour indication is at the 12 o’clock position and is framed with a prominent silver ring. The hour indication is black text on a white background. This certainly helps legibility but the date-wheel-colour-match crowd might be disappointed. The minute indication is around the normal pinion position. This minute track ring shows some Christopher Ward influence with a modern font for the numbers which contrast neatly with the Fears’ design of the actual hand. The minute hand also features a surround which is bisected by the jumping hour indicator.
The dial is burgundy red with a sunburst finish outside of the minute indicator and a concentric ring finish within it. The overall design manages to be dressy with a sporty edge. It’s clear where the Fears and Christopher Ward design languages have come together and the overall effect serves the watch very well.
Watch Specifications
316L Steel, 40.5mm cushion case, 12.8mm depth, 20mm lug width, jumping hour, oxblood red Alcantara lined calf-leather strap
Movement
Christopher Ward JJ01 based upon a Selitta SW200-1, time only, jumping hour at 12 o’clock.
The JJ01 module was designed by Johannes Jahnke before he moved to Selitta. It has been used in a number of Christopher Ward watches. Particular attention was paid to ensuring that the jumping hour is very fast and accurate. It jumps on the hour. Precisely. Christopher Ward hasn’t made a jumping hour for some time and it’s a pleasure to see this movement reappear in this collaboration.
Price & Availability
£3950 inc. VAT, £3291.67 ex VAT, limited edition of 50 available to public members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock owners only, available to order on 27th January 2023.
Concluding Thoughts
Collaborations between watch brands and other brands are relatively common. Collaborations between watch brands are less so (at least this overtly). The two brands have managed to integrate their quite different design languages very well. This is very much a Fears watch. This goes beyond the case and onion crown but extends to the detail work which makes the frames around the jumping hour and minute indicator so attractive.
There are some Christopher Ward design elements, particularly around the font used for the minute indicator and in the style of the frames. The JJ01 is not the star of this show but it shouldn’t be ignored. It’s the enabler of the whole design. The last official Christopher Ward jumping hour was the C1 Malvern which retired in 2018. Clearly, they didn’t forget about it. It’s always good to see a Calibre re-introduced and they’ve found a very good home for it in this collaboration.
If you are a member of the “Alliance” this is a great opportunity to buy a unique watch made by two successful British watch brands. This has the horological skill of Christopher Ward combined with the undeniable cachet and classy style of Fears. If you’re one of the lucky fifty who buy this piece I’m sure you won’t be disappointed.
@onliberty1859