Watch Alert: H Moser & Cie X UNDEFEATED Streamliner Chronograph;


Collaborations in the watch industry is extremely commonplace but they don’t always feel organic. However, if there is one that fits like a glove, it is this latest partnership between H Moser & Cie (Moser) and UNDFEATED. After all, both companies are trailblazers in their respective fields.

UNDEFEATED is one of, if not the most influential brand in the sneaker and streetwear industry. Started in 2005 by James Bond and Eddie Cruz, the brand has set sneaker trends for years now. While Moser has a fair longer history tracing back to 1828, the brand certainly feels young and hip after being refreshed by current CEO Eduoard Meylan since he took over in 2013. These two brands are not necessarily one of the big boys, but they have widespread cult-like followings that most of the big boys would kill to have. This latest release certainly stays true to that Let’s get into it.

Design & Watch Specifications

Black Tiger Camo fumé dial, UNDEFEATED logo, DLC-treated & applied logo & numerals
Dark grey DLC-treated steel case with domed sapphire crystal, 42.3mm x 14.2mm, see-through case-back, 120m water resistant
Integrated dark grey DLC-treated steel bracelet with “M” shaped links

The Streamliner may be relatively young, but it has certainly made its mark. When it was first released in January 2020, it was easily the most unique looking integrated steel sports watch, one that didn’t look like it was a mashup of other more established integrated steel sports watches. That still holds true today, and this latest release builds on that initial design, but with added UNDEFEATED flair.

That flair is most evident on the dial, which comes engraved with an UNDEFEATED go-to, a Black Tiger motif that is then lacquered several times over. What is particularly impressive is that Moser was still able to apply its signature fumé design complete with vertical brushing on this motif. Together these two intricate dial designs create a seamless collaborative dial, one that is equal parts Moser and UNDEFEATED.

Scottish Watches and TOCKR Watches

In many ways, Moser’s shift away from brand logos and towards an identifiable brand aesthetic really allows a collaboration like this to work. The engraved “H Moser & Cie” is barely visible on the dial, but it doesn’t matter. The UNDEFEATED applied logo may be the logo that stands out the most, but Moser’s identity doesn’t get lost in the mix. It is this delicate balance that makes this collaboration such a hit in my book.

Of course, none of that would have mattered if the dial had been cluttered with multiple chronograph sub-registers. Moser’s initial choice to make the Streamliner feature a central chronograph display proves to be inspired since it allows the dial to remain a virtually blank canvas for design inspiration; applied indices, minute track and flange-based tachymeter aside.

So too was the brand’s decision to design a completely fresh bracelet, one with very subtle M shaped links that flowed seamlessly into the cushion styled case. I loved the M link bracelet on the first Streamliner, and I love it here too. This uniquely Moser aesthetic is once again balanced out by UNDEFEATED flair, since the case and bracelet are anthracite grey DLC-coated. According to Edouard Meylan, this was something that was requested by UNDEFATED since it would show signs of patina and hence character over time. It isn’t clear at this point whether this patina would be similar to bronze patina in that the entire coating would patina and age, or if it would patina solely because coated watches are always more prone to signs of wear and tear. Personally, I think this watch looks brilliant as it is, and would not be a fan of patina especially if it’s the latter scenario, but I’m no design visionary so I am sure Moser and UNDEFEATED know what they are doing.

Movement

Calibre HMC 902 developed with AGENHOR for H. Moser & Cie., Double barrel, Horizontal clutch, Column-wheel chronograph with flyback mechanism, 3 Hz, 54 hours power reserve

The movement used here is the same as that used in the original Streamliner, the Calibre HMC 902. While it was not developed in-house by Moser, it was specially created for the brand by AGENHOR, a renown independent watchmaking company. The brilliance of this movement is that it was the first central display chronograph movement that also had a flyback capability (no necessity stop and reset the chronograph to start a new timing sequence). The rather complicated movement comprising of 434 components is also beautifully finished complete with Côtes de Genève stripes and beautifully polished anglage, all visibile through the watch’s display case back. Oh how, I would love to check this out in person.

Price & Availability

CHF 50,000, Limited Edition 76 pieces, Available from 22 June 2022 on UNDFEATED & Moser websites

With such brilliant watchmaking at play in a collaborative piece by two of the hottest brands in their respective industries, this was always going to be rather pricey. And it is pricey, at CHF 50,000. However, it is also extremely exclusive, with only 76 pieces, and you are getting a piece of art from some of the best designing minds today. Whether that is reasonable is completely subjective, but you have a few more days to make up your mind if you are interested.

Concluding Thoughts

Overall, I am a big fan of this release. It’s worth repeating that there aren’t many collaborations that feel as organic as this does. In its press released Eric Cheng (one of UNDEFEATED shareholder and avid Moser collected), the man who came up with this idea, was said that Moser is “bold and ahead of its time. It’s a very inspiring brand, which is why we decided to contact Edouard and his team.” The same applies to UNDEFEATED and this watch is a brilliant representation of these values.

Moser CEO Eduoard Meylan & UNDEFEATED shareholder Eric Cheng